Driving Samothraki: the two coast roads

Samothraki has two coast roads, and both end at the sea. One runs east along the north coast to Kipos, about 28 km from the port; the other runs south-west to Pachia Ammos, about 17 km. Between those two beaches, along the wild south-east, there is no road at all, so the island’s great drive is really two: out and back along each coast, with the mountain on one side and the sea on the other. Each is an easy half day with stops; together they make one of the best days on the island.

The north coast road: Kamariotissa to Kipos

Leaving the port, the road runs east past Palaiopolis, where the Sanctuary of the Great Gods and the Gattilusi tower stand above the sea, then through the farms and stays of Kariotes. The mountain grows greener as you go, with plane trees and oak forest coming down to the road.

At about 13 km comes Therma, the village of the hot springs and the walk to Gria Vathra. Some 5 km further, the Fonias tower marks the start of the Fonias gorge, with its beach below. From here the road gets quieter: past the chapel of Agia Paraskevi in its own cove and Aggistro, a clear cove for snorkelling, it ends at Kipos, a long beach of dark stones at the island’s eastern tip, facing the Turkish island of Gökçeada, with a beach bar for lunch.

The south-west road: Kamariotissa to Pachia Ammos

The other road leaves the port to the south-east. A branch climbs about 5 km to Chora, the old capital with its castle; the main road carries on past Makrilies beach and through the olive groves of Lakoma. This is the sheltered side of the island when the summer north wind blows.

The road ends at Pachia Ammos, the island’s long sandy beach, with the chapel of Panagia Krimniotissa on the rock high above it. On the way back, the turning up to Profitis Ilias leads to its goat tavernas and the sunset over the sea: the classic end to the day.

And the western tip

Just past the port, a short road and track lead out to Akrotiri, the island’s western point, with its lighthouse and the Agios Andreas lagoon, where migrating birds rest in spring and autumn. Look back from there for a view of Mount Saos you get nowhere else.

Good to know

• The island has one petrol station, about 800 m from Kamariotissa on the road to Chora: fill up before the far east.
• Drive slowly: goats, tortoises and walkers share the road, especially at night near Therma.
• Small cars cope best with narrow village streets; some dirt roads need more clearance.
• Car and scooter hire offices line the Kamariotissa seafront, or compare car hire before you travel: see getting around Samothraki. You can also bring your own car on the ferry from Alexandroupoli.
• For the villages along the way, see the villages of Samothraki.